Liz Buchanan BVSc MRCVS
Hello! I am not a specialist reptile vet but I do know that leopard geckos get their heat from underneath ie from sitting on rocks, which have been previously been warmed by the sun. Therefore heat should come from a ventral (underneath) surface such as an appropriate heat mat, and at an appropriate temperature - not too hot, not too cold. I was recommended 26 - 30 degrees at the warm end of the Viv and 20 - 21 at the cool end, and that this is recorded formally with a thermometer in order than changes are picked up. Geckoes don't regulate their body temperature like we do, so a temperature gradient (range) within their accommodation gives them chance to find the appropriate temperature for themselves throughout the day. However, they do need UV and / or appropriate vitamin D / Calcium supplementation. If you do not have the support of a retile vet for detailed husbandry advice, then we would strongly advise finding this as soon as possible; there is a lot of information available from all sorts of places on the internet but you need a source that you know you can rely on and an up-to-date reptile vet would point you to this. Fortunately, Covid has done us a favour in this regard - it is hopefully easier than ever before to speak to specialist vets online than ever before. If you cannot find one, speak to your own vet who should have an idea as to who to contact.
Even a 'normal' vet would also examine the eye for you - the picture on my phone isn't particularly clear. Poor sheds can manifest as loose skin forming 'plugs' across the eyes and is frequently in the species, but like all other animals, geckoes can also suffer infection, cancers, foreign bodies, insect bites and so on.
Eye cases are generally regarded as emergencies across all species, so hopefully a chat with your regular vet as soon as possible would be a good place to start and hopefully as a minimum, they can refer to an appropriate person who can help.