Hand rearing puppies can be very challenging, yet it can be the most rewarding thing you have done. Not all puppies need to be hand reared, some require some help whilst most are cared for by their mothers. Let’s have a look at when puppies may need some help with feeding.
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Why might we need to hand rear puppies?
Hand rearing should only be done if needed. Most of the time the mother will feed the puppies herself and if she is fine feeding then she should be left to this. It is never recommended to start handfeeding if the mother is capable. So, there are some reasons as to why we would have to help feed puppies:
Insufficient mother’s milk
Some mothers produce enough milk to feed the whole litter whilst some mothers cannot produce enough, especially if she has a big litter. At this point if not enough milk is being produced then hand feeding / assisting the puppies is needed for them to thrive.
Abandonment/aggression
Some mothers are just not capable of looking after puppies and will simply ignore or neglect them. Some will also be aggressive towards them. It doesn’t mean there is anything wrong with the mother, but she is just not interested in rearing puppies. At this point, for the pups to survive, hand rearing is needed.
Illness
Some mothers may get ill when nursing puppies – and an ill mother often has a poor milk production; she may also be less inclined to nurse her puppies.
Equally, the young puppies may get ill and become too weak to feed, and again, at this point hand feeding them is needed.
Mastitis
Mastitis is a painful infection of the mammary (breast) tissue and teats. Mothers can develop this during the nursing period. During this point she is likely to be on medication and struggling to feed her puppies. Hand feeding puppies will ease the pressure off the mother and ensure they are getting the milk they need.
Feeding difficulties
Some puppies may struggle to latch onto the teat – perhaps they are just too small, or have abnormalities like a cleft palate, or maybe they struggle to feed due to other litter mates. During this time, hand feeding might be needed. If an abnormality is found, then contact your vet. Often there is a puppy that is a lot smaller than the others, this is known as the runt. They are often pushed out by the bigger puppies when feeding, at this point they may require some feeding or require you to help them latch for a feed.
If any of these situations happen, then handfeeding is often the best option. But where do we even begin?!
I think the first and most sensible step is to contact your vet. Explain the situation, and take their guidance. In many cases, expect to be advised to get the mother and pups checked over, to rule out the most serious medical causes, before starting hand feeding.
What do we feed puppies with?
Puppies require puppy formula. It contains the correct vitamins and nutrients they need to thrive. Some people will say to give goats milk, or even cow’s milk, but this must not be given. It does not contain the specific nutrient balance that they need, and it may cause severe stomach upset. A reputable puppy formula will always explain in detail how to make it up (the wrong concentration can be dangerous!).
Puppy milk can be given via a syringe, very carefully and slowly though, whilst some puppies may take to a bottle and teat. If you’re ever unsure how to do any of these, then always consult your vet or vet nurse, that is what they are there for after all. Have a look at different brands, ask your vet for advice and see if they stock any. Almost all vets keep a tub or two in stock for emergencies. It’s ideal to find a brand that is easy to get – e.g. one that your vet stocks or is in your local pet shop.
How big and how much?
There are 2 pieces of information you need to get before you can start:
How big are the pups?
Weighing puppies is so very important, weighing them from when they are born is ideal, or if they have been abandoned then weigh them as soon as you can. If you have bred the puppies, then have some puppy ID collars handy so you can note down which puppy weighs what. Have some electric kitchen scales handy to weigh them from the start, make a note of all the weights. A newborn puppy should ideally gain between 5-10% of their initial body weight in the first week, then there should always be an increase weekly.
I think weighing is critical: it can tell you if the puppy is feeding well, or if they’re slowing down or going backward due to some illness. If a puppy has been gaining weight, then the weight gain suddenly stops or declines, it usually indicates a problem. If it is found that one or two aren’t gaining as well as the others it could benefit from some puppy formula, they might be struggling to get near their mum for a feed due to the others.
So, how much do they need?
This is a really variable question, because it will depend not just on the weight of the puppy, but also the specific puppy milk you are using. Different formulations have different nutrient densities, and require subtly different volumes. The key thing is, once you have weighed the pups, you can look on the packet or the manufacturer’s guidelines to see how much to feed. For more information, there’s a good summary guide from the PDSA here.
How often do puppies’ feed?
Newborn puppies tend to feed every 2 to 4 hours. This is even throughout the night. This is a big commitment. As puppies grow then they will feed less over a 24-hour period, and eventually, as they transition onto solids, will get to the point where they just need mealtimes!
Stimulation
When puppies are small, stimulation doesn’t mean playing with them, as they are unable to, but they must be stimulated to urinate and, especially, defecate. The mother would naturally groom the puppies to encourage them to go to the toilet. As the people hand rearing, we must do this, getting a damp bit of cotton wool and wiping it around their bottom and genital area will help stimulate them to pass urine and defecate. We must remember to keep doing this otherwise we could get serious complications due to constipation or urinary retention.
The living space
If you’re hand feeding a puppy that is still with its mother, then as long as she is still accepting it then it can potentially stay with her. Sometimes it’s the case that the mother is not interested in the puppy or puppies. At this point then taking the puppies away from her may be the safest option so no harm can come to them. This should be decided by yourself as you know your dog best.
However, wherever you are, the puppies need to be kept in a safe, warm, dry area. The ideal room temperature for a newborn puppy is between 26-29 degrees Celsius. This needs to be the higher end for hand rearing. It is important for the temperature of the room to be around 29 degrees Celsius because newborn puppies cannot regulate their own body temperature effectively. If you imagine when they are with their mother, the mother will give out a lot of body heat too.
It is also very important for feeding. A cold puppy should never be fed, as they so easily become hypothermic, and then they are unable to swallow or digest normally. Of course we aren’t going to be taking the puppies body temperature but as long as the room is of temperature and they feel nice and warm then we can presume they are warm enough to feed.
Does a hand reared puppy behave differently?
This is a good question. When puppies are being hand reared by their mother, they are with their littermates too, which means they are learning certain behaviours. They will be learning how to play with other dogs, they will be learning some discipline from the mother.
But what about if the puppies or puppy isn’t with the mother, how do they learn behaviours?
Well, this is the risk with hand rearing. Ideally, we do not want a young puppy around other dogs too soon before being vaccinated, but as soon as we can try and socialise the puppy as soon as possible, try to find a friend with a nice quiet dog that will tolerate a puppy. Not socialising a puppy with adult dogs could create a long-term behavioural problem.
The commitment
Hand rearing is like a full-time job. It requires round the clock care and feeding. Unlike an adult dog that can be left for some time whilst you go work, you cannot do this when hand rearing. Do you really have time for this? Hand rearing isn’t for a few weeks, you’ll need to commit to this until the puppy or puppies are fully weaned, which may be as late as around 8 weeks.
I think although this doesn’t happen with every litter, it is something to consider that may happen if you breed with your dog. So be prepared and look out for the signs. So really hand rearing isn’t for the faint hearted, it’s for those who are extremely dedicated and have plenty of time to do so.
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