Did the Easter bunny come this year? Not the imaginary kind that drops off chocolate, the real kind that lives for 10 years or more and deserves to have a better life than being trapped in a hutch at the bottom of the garden. If they did, or you are thinking of getting one, here’s my guide on how to care for them.
The majority of problems that vets see in rabbits are related to an inadequate diet. So, if you get their food right, you will give your pet the best chance of a healthy life!
The mainstay of a rabbit’s diet should be hay and every day they should eat a pile as big as they are. Rabbits have teeth that are constantly growing and chewing on hay keeps them in good shape. One of the most common issues for rabbits is sharp, overgrown teeth that can be so painful they stop eating altogether. Hay is also vital for healthy digestion, particularly important in rabbits for whom diarrhoea can be fatal.
Rabbits should also have a handful of fresh food everyday and a small amount (a tablespoon at most) of hard, pelleted food. Avoid the museli mixes as these allow your pet to pick out their favourites and become short on vital vitamins. For the majority of their day, your rabbits bowl should be empty (just like a dog or cat!), so they only have their hay to nibble on.
All rabbits should be vaccinated annually against Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD). These are both fatal and vaccination is the only protection. The injections can be given from 8 weeks of age. This visit to the surgery is also an opportunity for your vet to ensure your new pet is healthy and for you to ask any questions.
Having your rabbit neutered is very important. Females should be spayed when they are around 6 months and males can be castrated from 4 months. Entire rabbits can be grumpy, prone to biting and often urine spray, so not great pets! Also, 80% of entire female rabbits will develop uterine cancer in later life.
Training and handling
Rabbits are prey animals, so they are naturally nervous. This can mean they can be flighty and startle easily. As soon as you get your new rabbit, work with them to gain their confidence. Sit on the floor with them, offer treats, encouragement and try to get them to come to you. Don’t pick them up until they are used to you and always handle them calmly but firmly.
Also, rabbits should never be kept alone. For a social animal, solitary confinement is akin to torture. Neutered pairs of the opposite sex work best and they can be bonded in later life, if they have previously lived alone.
The most common parasite in rabbits is a fur mite. It causes flaky, itchy skin and is easily treated with veterinary ´spot-on´ drops. They can also get fleas, just like dogs and cats, and again these are easily treated with veterinary products. They can also suffer from internal parasites (worms) but they are not common.
Fly strike is a horrific, and often deadly, problem. It develops when flies lay their eggs on the dirty fur around a rabbit’s backend. These develop into maggots which burrow into the rabbit’s flesh, causing huge pain and damage, often within just a few hours. This is why all rabbits should be handled and checked at least twice daily and there are preventative treatments available from your vets.
There are now several companies which provide insurance policies for rabbits and it is something all rabbit owners should consider.
Rabbit are entertaining, inquisitive and rewarding but they do need the similar levels of care and attention as other pets. They are not the low maintenance, children’s pet many people think they are. Hopefully this article has helped you if you do have a bun and if it has inspired you to own one, get in touch your local rescue, they always have rabbits needing loving homes!
Cat Henstridge BVSc MRCVS – Read more of her blogs at www.catthevet.com
If you have any worries about your rabbit or any pet, please make an appointment with your vet, or try our Symptom Guide.