Cleaning up after parvo or enteritis: how to keep other pets safe

Enteritis is a common illness with many underlying causes, the most common cause being dietary indiscretion. Dogs especially have a knack for snaffling things they shouldn’t! Many cases of simple enteritis will clear up in a few days with supportive treatment.

BUT, occasionally enteritis has an infectious origin meaning that its caused by a pathogenic micro-organism such as a specific virus or bacteria. Canine Parvovirus (CPV) and Feline Parvovirus (FPV) aka Panleukopenia aka Infectious Enteritis are both infectious viruses causing gastrointestinal signs including diarrhoea, vomiting, abdominal pain, dehydration and lethargy. Unvaccinated, younger, geriatric and immunocompromised pets are at increased risk. Intensive veterinary care is required to treat infected pets and prognosis is often poor.

If one of your pets has been diagnosed with or is suspected of having infectious enteritis then meticulous cleaning and disinfection is needed to remove the pathogenic micro-organisms and decrease the risk to other pets.

How is infectious enteritis such as Parvo transmitted?

Diseases such as parvovirus (canine or feline) are highly contagious and can be spread by direct contact, contact with contaminated faecal matter or by fomites. If you’ve not come across the word “fomite” before, this simply means any inanimate object on which infectious micro-organisms can survive. So, a disease can then be transferred to another host (pet) without direct contact. Examples include bowls, toys, leads, litter trays, bedding and doorhandles. Even our shoes and clothing, if contaminated, can spread these viruses.

Parvoviruses are non-enveloped viruses, these types of viruses are tough and able to survive indoors or in the outdoor environment for months or even years. This, by the way, is why it’s recommended to keep puppies away from areas such as parks and public footpaths before their vaccinations are complete.

The viruses can be shed for a few days before symptoms start and for around 2-4 weeks (CPV) or 6 weeks (FPV) after an infected animal has recovered. Dogs cannot get FPV but cats can occasionally become infected with some newer strains of CPV (2a and 2c).

How to begin cleaning contaminated areas?

Cleaning and disinfecting are not the same thing!

Cleaning involves removing dirt (or faeces / vomit), whereas disinfecting kills germs such as bacteria or viruses. It’s worth wearing PPE (personal protective equipment) such as disposable or rubber gloves to protect your skin from detergents and/or disinfectants and to prevent spreading microorganisms further. Wearing wellies and disinfecting them after clearing up outside or using disposable shoe covers can also help stop the spread.

The first step is to clean up any visible areas of contamination such as faeces or vomit. This is really important because many disinfectants are inactivated or don’t work as well in the presence of organic matter. Cleaning will remove some of the micro-organisms but won’t kill them. Make sure that any cloths, sponges, mop heads or other cleaning equipment are kept separate and either disposed of or disinfected well when you have finished cleaning and disinfecting elsewhere.

Suitable disinfectants will be discussed followed by how different areas or items can be decontaminated.

What should I use to disinfect contaminated areas?

Not all disinfectants will kill all micro-organisms and non-enveloped viruses are particularly resistant to disinfectants. Several factors need to be considered.

Does the disinfectant kill the micro-organism present and is it suitable for the area / item / surface to be disinfected?

It’s important to check that the disinfectant has been tested against the microorganism in question otherwise your time and effort will have been wasted.

QAC (Quaternary Ammonium Compounds)

There are many distinct QAC disinfectants available, they are often safe to use on many different surfaces. But they are not all made equal and within this group there are different chemical variants, blends or concentrations of ingredients. Popular household QACs currently available in the UK such as Zoflora, Dettol* (surface spray and wipes) or supermarket branded products are NOT suitable. Many of these contain benzalkonium chloride, which is not effective against Parvo.

There are certain QACs often used in Veterinary Practice that have been tested against Parvovirus; these include products such Anigene or Safe4. Both of these disinfectants are available as a concentrated liquid requiring dilution (good for large areas, floors etc.) but also in ready-to-use hand trigger spray bottles which are easy to use on surfaces and for spot cleaning.

*Note – the brown Dettol liquid available contains Chloroxylenol which is classed as a phenol type disinfectant, this chemical is also not effective against Parvo and is toxic to cats.

Bleach (sodium hypochlorite)

Most homes will have bleach in the cupboard, and this actually does kill Parvo when used correctly (at a ratio of 1:30 bleach to water with a contact time of 10 minutes), but it’s not suitable for all surfaces and could ruin carpets or fabric. Bleach is inactivated by organic matter, it will need to be rinsed thoroughly after the contact time

Glutaraldehyde

Some disinfectants such as Parvo-virucide and Formula-H contain a mix of QAC and Glutaraldehyde and are also effective against CPV.

This is a basic overview of the more popular disinfectants currently available, not an exhaustive list. Other than bleach which is readily available, other pet specific disinfectants can be found in many pet shops, country supply stores, online retailers or your Veterinary Practice may be able to supply a suitable disinfectant.

Using the disinfectant correctly

As well as the correct chemical, the concentration or dilution ratio is just as important. Disinfectants have been tested at different concentrations for efficacy and safety. If a disinfectant is too weak it may not work but stronger doesn’t mean better! High concentrations can be toxic or damage surfaces – or even not work as well. Some disinfectants need the right amount of water to be fully activated, and if too concentrated, the effect is, paradoxically, reduced.

There is often a contact time given to kill different micro-organisms so make sure that the disinfectant is left on a surface long enough to kill CPV or FPV. An extended contact time is not necessarily required.

Contrary to popular belief, many disinfectants are just as effective using cold tap water as hot water. Remember, hot water will produce more water vapour which can irritate airways. Parvovirus can withstand temperatures of up to 80°C for 7 hours so removing organic matter, the dilution ratio and contact time are more essential. Note any instructions regarding water temperature.

Product safety

Don’t forget that disinfectants are strong chemicals. All safety information should be read and the instructions followed carefully. Different disinfectants should NEVER be mixed as this can release toxic gases. Use PPE as required or directed, as mentioned earlier this can help prevent virus spread as well as for your own protection from chemicals. If you’re disinfecting large areas such as kennelling or wiping down walls you may even want to consider goggles and/or a mask. Although a very rare incident, I know vets and nurses who have required a trip to A&E due to accidentally splashing disinfectant in their eyes!

Some disinfectants will need to be rinsed and dried before use or contact whereas for others a pet may be able to walk across a wet floor (after the contact time has passed to kill and viral particles). Some disinfectants must not be used on certain surfaces but are safe for use on others. Read the instructions!

Decontamination of different areas

Lawns, gravelled areas and gardens

These areas are extremely difficult to disinfect completely. After removing visible faeces and vomit (including some of the soil / gravel around it if necessary) you can then spot disinfect using a bleach spray or a disinfectant suitable for use on grass, bear in mind that many disinfectants including bleach will kill grass and other plants. Safe4 in its current formulation, is safe to use on grass but always check the product data sheet yourself or contact the manufacturer for further information to be sure.

Concrete, patios and decking are easier to clean and disinfect, you can do a spot test to make sure the chemical doesn’t discolour or damage the surface first.

Outdoor kennelling

If your dog is kennelled outside of the home environment then all bedding and bowls etc. can be removed, the kennel and any attached yard areas should be thoroughly cleaned before disinfection, make sure that all surfaces including walls, doors and bars are considered.

Always follow the manufacturers contact times, dilution rates and other instructions.

Indoors

Hard surfaces such as tiles, laminate and door handles can be easily cleaned and disinfected, but don’t forget to check if areas such as walls or cupboard doors have been splashed with diarrhoea or vomit. Carpets and soft furnishings can be particularly hard to clean, once organic material has been removed test an area first to check if the material will withstand the disinfectant, again make sure that the contact time is sufficient before rinsing the disinfectant out and allowing it to dry. Carpet cleaners are available but disinfection is crucial to prevent spreading the virus around the home. Although Parvovirus can withstand high temperatures it is inactivated rapidly at 100°C so using a steam cleaner on carpets, rugs and sofas can help (spot test first to make sure the steam doesn’t ruin your furnishings).

Beds, bowls, leads, litter trays and toys etc.

If soft bedding or toys are heavily soiled, it’s safest just to dispose of them as these can be difficult to clean and disinfect completely. Although it’s an extra expense to buy replacements, the risk involved means that an “if in doubt, chuck it out” approach is safest.

Non-porous items should be cleaned with detergent, rinsed and then disinfected making sure they soak for the required contact time

Will my other pets be safe?

If your other pets are up to date with their vaccines, the risk is low. Parvovirus vaccine is highly effective but it’s still worth being careful.

Unvaccinated pets or those who have missed vaccines are at high risk and it’s recommended that they are vaccinated in the face of an outbreak although full immunity won’t be reached until a week or so after the second vaccine. Pets with CPV or FPV will almost certainly need to be hospitalised, essentially isolating them from your other pets initially. But as these viruses can still be shed during recovery, potentially re-contaminating the home environment after being discharged they should be isolated until other pets have completed their vaccination programmes. Also continue to carefully clean up any faecal matter.

As discussed, it’s almost impossible to completely eradicate Parvovirus, leaving long-lived virus particles in the environment so vaccination will help protect your pets going forwards. Any new puppies or kittens should be FULLY vaccinated before bringing them home and continue to keep vaccinations up to date for all pets.

As viruses can be spread before clinical symptoms start its best to isolate your pets from others and keep away from public areas until the period of risk has passed. Do ask your vet for further advice on vaccinating in the face of an outbreak, the period of risk and more tailored advice to your individual circumstances.

On a final note….

The arduous task of scrupulous cleaning and disinfection is vital to kill as many virus particles as possible and therefore reduce the current and future risk. It is difficult but the risk can be significantly lowered and other pets can be kept safe.

Disinfectants are strong chemicals so as well as using the correct disinfectant, the dilution rates, contact times, surface suitability and product safety instructions should be carefully followed.

If CPV or FPV are suspected, early veterinary treatment is more likely to have a successful outcome. Although treatment is intensive and prognosis poor in young animals, pets can and do recover from these viruses with early diagnosis and treatment.